foam surface for testsockets
Tobias
Description
Collection
Title:
foam surface for testsockets
Creator:
Tobias
Date:
11/27/2009
Text:
Hi there,
Thank you very much for all the fast and helpful responses.-I got many
new inputs and ideas. Great.
I copied some answers, cause maybe some one of you can use this also ..
Have a nice weekend.
Regards
Tobias
1) The carve blanks are sometime the problem; we used to make our own.
The consistency is very important and that the foam is very fine. The
Bock AB foam works well and if you put one or two drops of water in the
mix when mixing the foam the cured foam is softer and smoother. Once the
positive is cut then use very fine sand paper and quickly sand the foam,
this will leave a very smooth finish. You can also use power but the
check socket material is not so clear then, a little cloudy. When
carving use the finest cut ration (the amount of cuts per cm)that will
also reduce the time to smooth the model, but will extend the cut time.
You can use a cotton stocking net and spray silicone onto the stocking
net, this may result in a rougher finish on the inside of the plastic,
this is sometime necessary to reduce the amount of vacuum on the
residual limb. Especially for those long residual limbs, this will help
donning and doffing. Which carver are you using?
2) DOUBLE YOUR SOCKS AND WET THE FOAM MODEL ABOUT TWO MINS BEFORE
PULLING PLASTIC. I HAVE BEEN USING THIS METHOD FOR ABOUT 8 YRS AND IT
WORKS PRETTY WELL. YOU CAN ALSO HELP BY SANDSCREENING THE FOAM MODEL
FIRST.
SILICONE GEL, IN MY OPINION, GETS INTO THE PLASTIC AND LEAVES A VERY
SLICK MESS YOU HAVE TO CLEAN. WATER WORKS BEST FOR ME.
3) All of our diagnostic sockets are fabricated from a foam model. We
use
3 nylons over the foam model sprayed down very well with cool water.
This helps to prevent the nylon from embedding into the plastic. I would
suggest a Nysert as the final layer before pulling the plastic.
4) Endolite makes a latex cone that can be stretched over the model to
prevent adhesion to the thermoplastic. It will be necessary to apply a
coating of silicone spray to prevent adhesion to the latex. You will
have some limitations regarding the types of plastic and the temperature
that it is heated to. We spent a lot of time experimenting with this
system and had some success. Ultimately, we have developed a system to
eliminate the check sockets completely and we simply fabricate the
definitive socket using lamination. I can provide further information on
how to do this, if you contact me. Just curious, what type of carver are
you using? You might be able to create your blocks using
plaster/vermiculite mixture, which I can also explain if you contact me.
Thank you very much for all the fast and helpful responses.-I got many
new inputs and ideas. Great.
I copied some answers, cause maybe some one of you can use this also ..
Have a nice weekend.
Regards
Tobias
1) The carve blanks are sometime the problem; we used to make our own.
The consistency is very important and that the foam is very fine. The
Bock AB foam works well and if you put one or two drops of water in the
mix when mixing the foam the cured foam is softer and smoother. Once the
positive is cut then use very fine sand paper and quickly sand the foam,
this will leave a very smooth finish. You can also use power but the
check socket material is not so clear then, a little cloudy. When
carving use the finest cut ration (the amount of cuts per cm)that will
also reduce the time to smooth the model, but will extend the cut time.
You can use a cotton stocking net and spray silicone onto the stocking
net, this may result in a rougher finish on the inside of the plastic,
this is sometime necessary to reduce the amount of vacuum on the
residual limb. Especially for those long residual limbs, this will help
donning and doffing. Which carver are you using?
2) DOUBLE YOUR SOCKS AND WET THE FOAM MODEL ABOUT TWO MINS BEFORE
PULLING PLASTIC. I HAVE BEEN USING THIS METHOD FOR ABOUT 8 YRS AND IT
WORKS PRETTY WELL. YOU CAN ALSO HELP BY SANDSCREENING THE FOAM MODEL
FIRST.
SILICONE GEL, IN MY OPINION, GETS INTO THE PLASTIC AND LEAVES A VERY
SLICK MESS YOU HAVE TO CLEAN. WATER WORKS BEST FOR ME.
3) All of our diagnostic sockets are fabricated from a foam model. We
use
3 nylons over the foam model sprayed down very well with cool water.
This helps to prevent the nylon from embedding into the plastic. I would
suggest a Nysert as the final layer before pulling the plastic.
4) Endolite makes a latex cone that can be stretched over the model to
prevent adhesion to the thermoplastic. It will be necessary to apply a
coating of silicone spray to prevent adhesion to the latex. You will
have some limitations regarding the types of plastic and the temperature
that it is heated to. We spent a lot of time experimenting with this
system and had some success. Ultimately, we have developed a system to
eliminate the check sockets completely and we simply fabricate the
definitive socket using lamination. I can provide further information on
how to do this, if you contact me. Just curious, what type of carver are
you using? You might be able to create your blocks using
plaster/vermiculite mixture, which I can also explain if you contact me.
Citation
Tobias, “foam surface for testsockets,” Digital Resource Foundation for Orthotics and Prosthetics, accessed November 16, 2024, https://library.drfop.org/items/show/230908.
