reduction in cast modification time for thermoplastic AFO's (cont)

reduction in cast modification time for thermoplastic AFO's (cont)

Skewes, Ed

3/26/2008

We have found a time saving technique for fabricating the proximal flair
of an AFO:
Cut a strip of 1/4 firm crepe about 1/2 -3/4 wide, slightly longer
than the circumference
of the mold at the point where you want the flair.
Take the strip to the drum sander and skive one edge all the way from
end to end. The angle
of the skived edge will be reflected in your finished product, so, 45 to
35 degrees seems to work
for us.
Mark the height of AFO on the mold to ensure the flair will be at the
proper measurement
after thermoforming and cooling. I mark the desired height then place
another mark 1/4 to 3/8 below
it. This is where the the distal end of the skived, flair strip will
lie. Basically, the actual trim line mark becomes obscured once you
place the flair strip where it needs to be, so, hence the need for a
second mark.
Then simply staple one end at the anterior of your mold (and out of your
trim lines), then tightly
wrap the skived crepe strip around the proximal end of the mold with
skived edge facing out, pointing distally. Staple the other end at the
anterior, out of your trim lines and then on with the stockinette.
A little bit of baby powder helps to prevent the stockinette from
sticking to the plastic.(we put the powder in a doubled up stockinette,
like a little pillow, it makes the application of powder much easier.)
This works on KAFO's as well, but, only if your are thermoforming with a
foam liner. in which case
you still put the flair strip on the raw mold, then the stockinette,
then the foam liner.(don't forget the powder) When fabricating unlined
KAFO's' we found for still unquantifiable reasons, it causes unwanted
spreading. Possibly due to the larger circumference, which the foam
liner must help to counteract. But for AFO's, it works great and we
usually prefabricate a bunch of these to have at the ready.
  
 
 
 


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