RESPONSES: Socket Duplication
John T. Brinkmann
Description
Collection
Title:
RESPONSES: Socket Duplication
Creator:
John T. Brinkmann
Date:
4/3/2007
Text:
Many thanks to all who responded to my question about duplicating a Symes.
ORIGINAL QUESTION
Does anyone know of a way to duplicate an existing Symes (or any significantly bulbous) socket without necessitating cutting of the socket to remove it from the mold? I'm concerned that alginate would be too soft and a Duplicone too rigid. Ideally, I'd like to be able to transfer the alignment, but the priority is duplication of the socket contours.
John Brinkmann, CPO, LPO, FAAOP
Most Common Responses
1. Otto Bock duplicating plastic/foam (Pedilan). I’ve ordered the material and will be trying this first.
2. Renew Replicator silicone www.renewmaterials.com; Available through SPS or Kingsley. Expensive compared to O. Bock’s Pedilan, but seems like a good option.
3. Digitization using a wand (Tracer CAD)
Below are some of the detailed responses that include tips:
Start with 2 or 3 layers of O.B. duplicating foam. After the foam sets
you can deform it and remove from the socket. Mix light plaster and
pour into the duplicating foam shell. Roll the plaster around inside it to
coat the foam and create a rigid wall. You may need to do the light
plaster treatment several times. When the foam/plaster walls are rigid
enough, you can insert a pipe and fill the shell with plaster. Seal the
foam and fabricate as needed.
I use alginate with vermiculite aggrigate and a long pipe. If you vaseline the socket, it should pull out and still be fairly rigid. Must have a pipe all the way to the bottom.
I've great results with alginate, when doing something like a symes,
I take a 1x2 piece of wood long enough to goe all the way through to
where the socket becomes bulbous. I lubricate the wood with vaseline. The
alginate should be thick and let to set really well. I'll then remove the wood
from from the alginate while it is still in the socket. The empty space
left from the wood will compress and the alginate come out of the socket
without elongating it. I then reinsert the wood and wrap the alginate with
rigid plaster. This has worked more than once over the years.
Use duplicating plastic from Otto Bock. It uses the same hardener as
Their rigid foam. You need to use their separator, otherwise the duplicating
plastic will stick to the socket. Keep the distal end thickness to less
than half an inch and it will come out quite easily. Let the material sit
for a day and it will stiffen up nicely. Be careful not to let the material
deform before its' full cure. If you lean it against something it will distort
overnight.
When we alginate, we tape loops of sanding screen at various
points on the pipe. After the alginate dries, remove the socket while
holding it vertically allowing the alginate to elongate. Remarkably the
screen holds the alginate!
---------------------------------
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ORIGINAL QUESTION
Does anyone know of a way to duplicate an existing Symes (or any significantly bulbous) socket without necessitating cutting of the socket to remove it from the mold? I'm concerned that alginate would be too soft and a Duplicone too rigid. Ideally, I'd like to be able to transfer the alignment, but the priority is duplication of the socket contours.
John Brinkmann, CPO, LPO, FAAOP
Most Common Responses
1. Otto Bock duplicating plastic/foam (Pedilan). I’ve ordered the material and will be trying this first.
2. Renew Replicator silicone www.renewmaterials.com; Available through SPS or Kingsley. Expensive compared to O. Bock’s Pedilan, but seems like a good option.
3. Digitization using a wand (Tracer CAD)
Below are some of the detailed responses that include tips:
Start with 2 or 3 layers of O.B. duplicating foam. After the foam sets
you can deform it and remove from the socket. Mix light plaster and
pour into the duplicating foam shell. Roll the plaster around inside it to
coat the foam and create a rigid wall. You may need to do the light
plaster treatment several times. When the foam/plaster walls are rigid
enough, you can insert a pipe and fill the shell with plaster. Seal the
foam and fabricate as needed.
I use alginate with vermiculite aggrigate and a long pipe. If you vaseline the socket, it should pull out and still be fairly rigid. Must have a pipe all the way to the bottom.
I've great results with alginate, when doing something like a symes,
I take a 1x2 piece of wood long enough to goe all the way through to
where the socket becomes bulbous. I lubricate the wood with vaseline. The
alginate should be thick and let to set really well. I'll then remove the wood
from from the alginate while it is still in the socket. The empty space
left from the wood will compress and the alginate come out of the socket
without elongating it. I then reinsert the wood and wrap the alginate with
rigid plaster. This has worked more than once over the years.
Use duplicating plastic from Otto Bock. It uses the same hardener as
Their rigid foam. You need to use their separator, otherwise the duplicating
plastic will stick to the socket. Keep the distal end thickness to less
than half an inch and it will come out quite easily. Let the material sit
for a day and it will stiffen up nicely. Be careful not to let the material
deform before its' full cure. If you lean it against something it will distort
overnight.
When we alginate, we tape loops of sanding screen at various
points on the pipe. After the alginate dries, remove the socket while
holding it vertically allowing the alginate to elongate. Remarkably the
screen holds the alginate!
---------------------------------
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
Citation
John T. Brinkmann, “RESPONSES: Socket Duplication,” Digital Resource Foundation for Orthotics and Prosthetics, accessed November 24, 2024, https://library.drfop.org/items/show/228132.
