Adhesive replies #2

Adhesive replies #2

Derek Kozar

9/7/2000

Here is part two of the replies...


I have had good success using vinyl adhesive ( a thin coat ) letting it
dry and then coating it with a layer of Master contact adhesive let it
tack
and then putting it in press for a few hours. I hope this helps, Michael

Link


If you call National Shoe (probably where you're getting your shoe stuff

from right now) they have helmitin helmiplast # c2528, a product which
is
for polyurethane and other hard to glue shoes. It is a white glue which
you
apply to both sides of the soling, let dry for 45 minutes (yep, that
long
for sure) and then heat with a heat gun. I haven't had any of the so
called, rubber lifts (aka the ones that are on cheaper shoes and contain

plastic) come apart.

Hey Derek,
I have had some success reglueing to oil resistant soles in the past.
An old shoe cobbler let
me in on a little secret of his. Once the sole is cut of, use
superglue on the surface and
spread evenly throughout the entire surface just to leave a nice even
skin on the surface. Let
the superglue set and dry completely. This leaves a nice surface for
the barge glue to stick
to, try it I hope it helps.

Jason L. Bradshaw

Try SAR 10 from Saderna of California 213-461-4861. It is a
waterproof
style adhesive and hold up well to various substance exposure.

Greg Michalov CP
ÖSSUR/Flex-Foot

Try Fast-Fix Plus a product of Sure Foot corp. 800 722-3668. We buy
ours
from a local distributor (Esko in Austin, TX). It takes some practice
to
learn to use it because it is an instant glue not a contact cement.

Raymond Blasingame LO

We had similar problems with the oil resistant soles and always explain

to
the patient that we cannot guarantee that the lift will stick. However,

our
techs have switched to this glue called DeCologne which works very
well. We
have been using it for about a year now and it really keeps those lifts
on
well. It has a very peculiar smell. We order it from AGS in Richmond,
VA.
Hope I've helped.

Joan Cestaro, CP

   I use a glue that is called Renia syntic (in a green can) shoe goo
is good but dries way to slow. Working time on this product is about
5-30
minutes. You can paint a coat of barge on top of it if you want and
stick
it together. I use a glue called Superbond, once again I think it is
faster. I am sure that some people would argue this especially on this
(P&O) list.

Good luck
gary

We have found the best way to take care of soles of shoes that do not
cement
with your conventional cements. We put a coat of Fast-Fix-Plus, it a
supper glue you can get from your jobber. You can use an activator with
it
to speed up the drying time.
Just rough it up lightly on your belt sander. Then you can use what ever

cement you like best. Good Luck
Charles L. Eral, BOCO, C.Ped., RT(O)

If you contact A.G.S. Inc. at 800-446-3820 they sell an adhesive called

Colle De Cologne which has worked very well on some of the hard to
bond
soling materials. It's a little expensive but I have had good luck with
various types of molded soling used in walking/running type shoes.
I hope this helps.

The problem with oil resistant soles, obviously, is they resist the
solvent in the Masters cement. You will have to stich a sub sole on to
the
boot sole before you put on your EVA elevation. I suggest using a 5
iron
composition soling material . You'll have to take it to a shoe repair
shop
to have it stiched with a sole sticher. You then can glue to it.
The problem here is going to be weight. Also, depending on how much
elevation you are putting on, it will not be oil resistant. {If that is

necessary} Good luck.
Aaron Kent C.Ped.

We use a cyno-acrylate glue very similar to Crazy Glue called Fast Fix.
We
buy it through Driscol Leather and it bonds to most plastic type soling
materials very well and with no color.