Re: Help.....
Catherine Shin
Description
Collection
Title:
Re: Help.....
Creator:
Catherine Shin
Date:
10/15/1997
Text:
On Wed, 15 Oct 1997 <Email Address Redacted> wrote:
> I am a below elbow amputee looking for terminal devices to aid in rock
> climbing...
>
> I used a hook to begin, but this proves to be a problem because there is no
> release from the hold if i lose grip with my other hand.... in effect I could
> fall and be dangling from my prosthesis, or just lose it (leave it
> hanging)....
Tim - just so you know, I just graduated from prosthetics school so I
don't have a lot of real world experience, however, I have been climbing
for 5-6 years. What kind of climbing are you doing? Indoors or outdoors?
If outdoors, are you climbing mostly blocky type holds (jugs and big
edges) or cracks? Are you doing much overhanging stuff or mostly using
your arms for balance and direction on slab? Crack climbing might be the
only place a hand type terminal device would be useful.
What sort of suspension are you using? Muenster or harness?
At first glance, I think a hook (possibly modified or even using a
terminal device made from some aid gear) might be the best for reasons of
ruggedness and gripping. Then, if your sound side grip slips, the key will
be suspension. How much residual limb do you have (what % of length or
what muscle attachments?
And last but not least, how much do you want to be perceived as climbing
with good style (i.e. not using what could be perceived as aid - like a
camming terminal device on a crack climb) versus how much do you just want
to get up more varied or harder routes?
Cathy
<Email Address Redacted>
(718) 824-1355
> I am a below elbow amputee looking for terminal devices to aid in rock
> climbing...
>
> I used a hook to begin, but this proves to be a problem because there is no
> release from the hold if i lose grip with my other hand.... in effect I could
> fall and be dangling from my prosthesis, or just lose it (leave it
> hanging)....
Tim - just so you know, I just graduated from prosthetics school so I
don't have a lot of real world experience, however, I have been climbing
for 5-6 years. What kind of climbing are you doing? Indoors or outdoors?
If outdoors, are you climbing mostly blocky type holds (jugs and big
edges) or cracks? Are you doing much overhanging stuff or mostly using
your arms for balance and direction on slab? Crack climbing might be the
only place a hand type terminal device would be useful.
What sort of suspension are you using? Muenster or harness?
At first glance, I think a hook (possibly modified or even using a
terminal device made from some aid gear) might be the best for reasons of
ruggedness and gripping. Then, if your sound side grip slips, the key will
be suspension. How much residual limb do you have (what % of length or
what muscle attachments?
And last but not least, how much do you want to be perceived as climbing
with good style (i.e. not using what could be perceived as aid - like a
camming terminal device on a crack climb) versus how much do you just want
to get up more varied or harder routes?
Cathy
<Email Address Redacted>
(718) 824-1355
Citation
Catherine Shin, “Re: Help.....,” Digital Resource Foundation for Orthotics and Prosthetics, accessed November 2, 2024, https://library.drfop.org/items/show/210017.
